Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date Watch

Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date Watch


Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date Watch Watch Releases


Some 195 years ago, Bovet was founded by Edouard Bovet in London, who would go on to make watches to sell in China. The history thereafter is a bit hazy, but one thing that is certain is that Bovet watches are unlike any other. Love them or loathe them, many of Bovet watches have a style quite unlike anything else, and I have to respect them for that. Unlike other brands that might seem subject to trends and fads, Bovet seems blissfully unconcerned, creating watches that are uniquely theirs. Furthermore, many of their high-end pieces feature interesting technical innovations. Since 2017 marks the 195th anniversary of Bovet, the brand has just released the new Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date watch, a limited-edition piece to commemorate the occasion.


Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date Watch Watch Releases


The Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date watch will be available in three case materials: 18k red gold, 18k white gold, and platinum. Case size is 44mm wide with a thickness of 13.45mm. Coupled with its unique and elaborate lug structure, we have here a big watch with certainly lots of wrist presence.


Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date Watch Watch Releases


But beyond that, what is special about the case design is that it is tapered like the Bovet Récital 18 Shooting Star and Récital 20 Astérium – meaning that it is at its thickest at 12 o’clock and then gradually becomes thinner sloping toward 6 o’clock. Bovet calls this “an inclined crystal aperture.” Whatever you call it, it is pretty cool since it is something you don’t see much in other watches.


Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date Watch Watch Releases


The dial is done in typically Bovet fashion, which is to say it is both very classical and ornate in its styling. What captures your attention first are the two large sub-dials at 10 and 2 o’clock. The former is a power reserve indicator and the latter holds the big date complication. Time is read using the two slightly off-center hour and minute hands. At 6 o’clock is the double face flying tourbillon. Bovet also offers a selection of dials and owners will be able to choose from black lacquer, ivory, or blue aventurine.


Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date Watch Watch Releases


The movement within has been designated the 17BM03-GD, and it is lavishly hand-decorated to Bovet’s usual high standards. The bridges and plates have been chamfered and polished, the disk plates are sunk and also chamfered, and numerous bridges have been painstakingly engraved by hand.


Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date Watch Watch Releases


The flying tourbillon deserves special mention because the bridges are made out of titanium to reduce inertia and magnetism. But more importantly, they have been shaped to resemble wings and have been mirror-polished to achieve maximum sheen.


Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date Watch Watch Releases


Aside from being beautiful to look at, the movement also has some practical features. The 10-day-long power reserve means owners need not wind them regularly, but such a long power reserve usually necessitates tedious winding as well. Not so in the case of the Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date, because the winding mechanism contains a spherical differential that halves the numbers of turns required to fully wind the watch. Incredibly, it does so without increasing either the friction or force required.

Another practical feature is the correction for the big date. No pusher is required because the date can be adjusted by simply pressing the crown. And because the crown is located at 12 o’clock, there’s no fear of accidental date corrections either.


Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date Watch Watch Releases


As I mentioned at the beginning, Bovet watches are those you either love or hate. Personally, I am quite fond of their ornate styling and I can definitely foresee wealthy collectors adding one to their collection. The Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date is limited to just 80 pieces and priced at $199,800 in red gold, $209,800 in white gold, and $267,800 in platinum. bovet.com

Updated Breitling Superocean Heritage II Watches With Tudor-Developed Movement

Updated Breitling Superocean Heritage II Watches With Tudor-Developed Movement


Updated Breitling Superocean Heritage II Watches With Tudor-Developed Movement Watch Releases


The Breitling Superocean Heritage is a classic diver’s watch that’s now celebrating its 70th anniversary with a slight design refresh and a brand-new movement developed with Tudor watches. The new Breitling caliber B20 is derived from the Tudor Caliber MT5612 used in their Black Bay watches, among others. In fact, Tudor’s new Black Bay chronograph borrows from the Breitling B01 caliber as part of what I call their “movement exchange program” this year. Like the previous version, the Breitling Superocean Heritage II collection will include a 42mm and 46mm three-hand automatic with date as well as a 46mm automatic chronograph.


Updated Breitling Superocean Heritage II Watches With Tudor-Developed Movement Watch Releases


Initially released in 1957, the Breitling Superocean is still going strong in many sizes, colors, and configurations. In addition to their modern, sportier Superocean collection, Breitling smartly released the vintage-inspired Superocean Heritage collection a few years back.


Updated Breitling Superocean Heritage II Watches With Tudor-Developed Movement Watch Releases


Outgoing Superocean Heritage


Updated Breitling Superocean Heritage II Watches With Tudor-Developed Movement Watch Releases


Aesthetic changes are pretty discreet, with a new ceramic ring around the minute track replacing the old steel one, allowing for the color to match the dial in a seamless look. It’s actually pretty noticeable when compared with an older model, as you can see above. It’s minor but a refinement that definitely brings a higher-end look. Also, for those who look closely, the minute hand is now slightly more sword-shaped, and the hour hand now has a steel partition in the lume in the arrow’s head.


Updated Breitling Superocean Heritage II Watches With Tudor-Developed Movement Watch Releases



Updated Breitling Superocean Heritage II Watches With Tudor-Developed Movement Watch Releases


Of course, the major new change for the three-handers is the new B20 movement, a self-winding, 28-jewel caliber which vibrates at 28,800bph. It is Breitling’s take on the Tudor MT5612 movement which provides a solid 70-hour power reserve. It’s clear that both brands are benefitting from each other’s “specialties,” with the Tudor three-hand movement applied here, which would likely drive the cost up considerably if Breitling were to develop it themselves, and Tudor adaping the Breitling B01 movement (not the one used in the Breitling Superocean Heritage II chronograph, mind you).


Updated Breitling Superocean Heritage II Watches With Tudor-Developed Movement Watch Releases



Updated Breitling Superocean Heritage II Watches With Tudor-Developed Movement Watch Releases


The 46mm Breitling Superocean Heritage II Chronograph also sports some subtle upgrades and alterations. Like its three-hand siblings, the chronograph now has a ceramic bezel and the same slight changes to the handset. The Breitling Superocean Heritage II Chronograph features the trusty old caliber B13, which is based off the Valjoux 7750. The automatic movement operates at 28,800vph and has a power reserve of around 42 hours.


Updated Breitling Superocean Heritage II Watches With Tudor-Developed Movement Watch Releases



Updated Breitling Superocean Heritage II Watches With Tudor-Developed Movement Watch Releases


The new Breitling Superocean Heritage II collection is a subtle upgrade in terms of aesthetics with the three-handers reflecting the increased value and interest among buyers in the origin of a watch’s movement. The new Breitling Superocean Heritage II will come in a variety of dial colors (in this case, Volcano Black, Gun Blue, and Stratus Silver) and with a huge variety of straps like leather, crocodile leather, the rubber Aero Classic or Ocean Racer, or the new rubber-leather Ocean Classic. The chronograph will be available with either a Volcano Black, Mariner Blue, or Copperhead Bronze dial, and customers will be able to choose between leather, crocodile leather, the rubber Aero Classic or Ocean Racer, or the new rubber-leather Ocean Classic straps.

Price for the Breitling Superocean Heritage II 42mm will be $4,075 on a rubber strap, $4,500 on leather, and $4,700 on bracelet. The 46mm three-hander will start at a price of $4,375 on a rubber strap, $4,500 on leather, and $4,700 on a bracelet. The Superocean Heritage II Chronograph 46 will be priced from $5,415 on a rubber strap, $5,840 on leather, and $6,040 on a bracelet. breitling.com